AC Repair in Lansing, KS: How to Handle 3 Common Troubles

There can be several reasons why your AC equipment won’t cool: an overloaded circuit breaker, inaccurate thermostat settings, a turned off switch or an overfull condensate drain pan.

Your air conditioner won’t start when you have an overloaded breaker.

To find out if one has gotten overloaded, find your residence’s main electrical panel. You can find this metallic device on the wall in the basement, garage or closet.

• Confirm your hands and feet are dry before you work on the panel or breakers.
• Find the breaker identified “AC” and make sure it’s in the “on” location. If it’s triggered the breaker will be in the in between or “off” location.
• Steadily transfer the lever back to the “on” spot. If it immediately trips again, leave it alone and call us at 913-845-9463. A breaker that keeps tripping might mean your house has an electrical issue.

If your thermostat isn’t signaling your equipment to start, it won’t switch on.

The first part is checking it’s set to “cool” and not “heat.” Otherwise your AC will probably not start running. Or you could get. heated air moving from vents because the heat is going instead.

If you rely on a traditional thermostat:

• Replace the batteries if the screen is clear. If the screen is showing scrambled characters, buy a new thermostat.
• Make sure the right option is displaying. If you can’t change it, reverse it by lowering the temperature and pushing the “hold” button. This will cause your AC to run if programming is not right.
• Try setting the thermostat 5 degrees below the house’s temperature. Your AC won’t cool if the thermostat is set the same as the space’s temperature.

Once your thermostat is adjusted properly, you should begin getting refreshing air fast.

If you’re using a smart thermostat, like one produced by Nest, Ecobee, Lux, Honeywell or Bosch, go to the manufacturer’s website for assistance. If it still won’t work, call us at 913-845-9463 for help.

Your air conditioner typically has a shut-down lever near its outside unit. This lever is typically in a metal box attached to your house. If your unit has recently been serviced, the lever may have unintentionally been placed in the “off” location.

Condensate drain pans hold the extra water your equipment removes from the air. This pan can be situated either under or in your furnace or air handler.

When there’s a clog or clogged drain, water can accumulate and trigger a safety setting to switch off your system.

If your pan has a PVC pipe or drain, you can drain the extra condensation with a special pan-cleaning tab. You can buy these tablets at a home improvement or hardware store.

If your pan involves a pump, find the float switch. If the switch is “up” and there’s water in the pan, you could need to install a new pump. Call us at 913-845-9463 for help.

If your equipment is running but not providing cold air, its airflow might be blocked. Or it might not have adequate refrigerant.

Your equipment’s airflow can be decreased by a blocked air filter or dusty condenser.

A dirty filter can cause many problems, including:

• Reduced airflow
• Frosted refrigerant lines or evaporator coil
• Uneven cooling
• Increased utility expenses
• Causing your system to stop working sooner

We suggest replacing flat filters monthly, and pleated filters every three months.

If you aren’t sure when you last replaced yours, shut off your unit totally and pull out the filter. You can find the filter in your furnace or air pump’s blower compartment. It may also be situated in an adjoining filter holder or wall-mounted return air grille.

Angle the filter up to the sunshine. If you can’t see any light you should get a new one.

Greenery, grass and sticks can block your condensing system. This can limit its airflow, make it less energy efficient and impact your comfort. Here’s a method you can follow to get your equipment running properly again.

1. Shut off electricity fully at the breaker or outside device.
2. Remove greenery waste around the equipment. Once you’ve cleared larger clutter within a two-foot area, you can use a paint brush or vacuum to slowly clean the unit’s fins. Crooked fins can also affect effectiveness, so you can attempt to adjust them with a blunt knife.
3. Use a hose nozzle to slowly remove gunk off the fins from inside the system. Make sure to avoid getting moisture on the fan motor.
4. Replace the top and turn on the power.

When AC systems don’t have sufficient refrigerant, they’ll struggle to remove heat and humidity from the air.

Here are several symptoms that your equipment is leaking refrigerant:

1. It takes an extended amount of time to cool your space and you’re continually turning down the thermostat.
2. Air conditioning moving through the vents isn’t as chilled as it should be.
3. You’re noticing hissing or bubbling noises when the AC runs.
4. Your evaporator coil is frosted as a result of having difficulty handling humidity.

Suspect your equipment is losing refrigerant? You need a qualified heating and cooling service specialist to take care of the leak and replenish the correct measurement of refrigerant in your system. Get in touch with us at 913-845-9463 for help.

When it feels like you’re not getting adequate amounts of chilled air, there’s probably a blockage or disconnection inside your AC equipment.

• The beginning stage is looking at your air filter. Get a new one if it’s filthy.
• Then make sure the ductwork is open around your home.
• If you’re still not receiving adequate cold air, you should have your ducts examined by a specialist like Everest Heating & Cooling. Your duct system may need to be fixed or rejoined in tricky locations like your attic, basement or crawl space.